Alta Via 1
In 2019, my husband and I spent six days hiking hut (rifuggio) to hut on the Alta Via 1 with an Italian group and guide (we went through the Trekkilandia company and everything went great), and it is to this day one of the most beautiful trails we’ve backpacked. One nice aspect of doing hut to hut is that you are not carrying a sleep system, and the hut provides breakfast and dinner on site, with a sandwich to bring along on your day. Some are more rustic than others… all are beautiful!
I’ll detail each day below, mentioning where we stayed each night, and giving a brief account of the hikes. For the full adventure, watch my 7-part series on the Alta Via 1 on my YouTube channel!
Lago di Braies, where the trek starts.
Day 1: Lago di Braies - Rifuggio Biella
Day 1 started at Lago di Braies and we made it to Rifuggio Biella, which was the most rustic of them all, with turkish bathroom.
We definitely had some elevation gain (it’s all up after you leave the lake shore) and some tricky narrow sections to navigate, but nothing too bad, and beautiful landscapes and flowers once we were high up, before going down a bit to the Rifuggio. It’s a good intro to the hike, tough but not too long, so good for a first day.
After the yaks at the lake, we saw our first marmot of the trip!
About 8km, +960 m;- 180 m
Morningviews on day 2.
Day 2: Rifuggio Biella-Rifuggio Lavarella
Shortly after leaving Rifuggio Biella, we were able to stop for (Italian!) coffee at Rifuggio Sennes (2126m), which was a great mid-morning break.
Then we went down switchbacks to Rifuggio Pederú (1548m), before continuing hiking on rolling terrain and a mix of single track/wider trail to our refuge for the night, probably the fanciest, Lavarella (2050m), located near a beautiful lake.
About 13km, +615 m; - 950 m
Rocky section on day 2
DAY 3: Rifuggio Lavarella -> Rifuggio Lagazuoi
The day starts with lots of green all around, we stop again for coffee at Rifuggio Fanes and continue without too much elevation change until a pass where we start going down a long series switchbacks that look a little vertiginous.
We encounter some snow, even in July! we have lunch at the bottom and take a break because the rest is all uphill. The further up we go, the more rocky the landscape, and the end is a tough series of switchbacks until we reach Rifuggio Lagazuoi at 2752m.
There is an option to go on a side quest and explore tunnels built during WWII, but I opted out. We saw the mountains turn pink at night with the sunset.
About 13km,+1063 m; - 425 m
Great views at the end of Day 3!
Day 4: Rifuggio Lagazuoi to Rifuggio Giussani
We leave the Rifuggio and continue on rocky terrain before heading down a bit where we find more snow! We see our first chamois of the trip!
This day includes some more technical terrain and switchbacks where we need to use our hands, but it is so beautiful all around! The rest of the day is amongst the rock, and our refuge for the night, Giussani 2600m, almost looks like it’s on the moon.
It’s also a rescue center with helicopters, but hopefully you don’t see them in action (we did witness an impressive rescue during a storm (see video of day 4)
About 10km +700 m; - 1000 m
Snow in July on day 4!
Day 5: Rifuggio Giussani to Rifuggio Scoiattoli
We start the day going downhill, and happily return to grass and trees. We hike in the forest for a while and see another chamois, and then go alongside the mountain for a while before going back uphill to the gorgeous Rifuggio Scoiatollo (2255m), near a famous climbing site.
We will spend the night there, but the day is not done! We leave our bags and continue hiking up (but light!) to Rifuggio Nuvolau (2575m) to admire the views.
About 9km +900 m;- 900 m
Evening views on Day 5.
Day 6: Rifuggio Scoiattoli to Rifuggio Croda da Lago
We start the day observing marmots and then head down the trail only to go back up (such is life in the mountains!) and it’s a beautiful day with rolling hills and a break at Passo Giau (2336m) where we see a lot of bikers who took their motorcycles for a spin and are also taking a break there. We stay in wide open spaces most of the day, and I forgo another side quest to go up a nearby peak.
We finish the day hiking in the woods until Rifuggio Croda Da Lago (2046m), located near a small lake, where you can have a flight of grappa and choose from some strange flavors…
About 12km +550 m; - 760 m
Leaving Rifuggio Scoiattoli on Day 6.
Day 7: Rifuggio Croda da lago to San Vito di Cadore
Last day of hiking, we head back to San Vito di Cadore to get a bus back to Venice. But before that, some beautiful hiking with amazing views one last time, and more marmots!
It’s a good long day going downhill slowly (nobody wants it to be over), we take a break at Rifuggio Città di Fiume, and slowly enter the forest before leaving the Alta Via to rejoin civilization…
About 17km +390m, -1384m
Morning light on our last day, by the lake right next to Rifuggio Croda da Lago
This is not the entirety of the Alta Via 1 route, but what we could do with the group, taking our time to take in the views and enjoying each other’s company. Have you done this? Have you done more? Do you have recommendations? If so, let me know in the comment section down below!